Sew on the marked line and trim a 1/4″ seam allowance. I work in rows. Pretty much, when I'm quilting I'll quilt this feather come back here and then continue on the quilt, so when I rearrange I can easily move and quilt on the next one. Center and press the shiny side of the freezer paper to the back of the label fabric with a warm iron. https://www.nationalquilterscircle.com/video/how-to-make-a-quilt-label-003696 Once you sew around the whole quilt, check the back for any places the stitches missed the binding on the back and take that section again until all the binding is secure. Decide what you’d like to write on your label and write it on a piece of paper the size and layout you want for the label. Learn how to make a fence rail border, an offset rectangle "brick" border… Sewing Sashing. After sewing a border, have you ever noticed that the outer edges of your quilt are wavy? Now the quilt was more square and ready for borders. Use a pair of scissors to trim one of the ends about 6″ from the seam. Sew the border to the quilt top, starting and stopping ¼” away from the ends of the quilt, backstitching at each end. Uh oh. Permanent Fabric Marker Cut a piece of light iron-on fusible the size of your label, and note that it’s better if it’s a touch smaller than a touch bigger. Sew a stripe 4 1/2″ x 13 1/2″ rectangle to the left and right side of a Snowball unit with all fuchsia corners. Label is permanently secured to the quilt this way. There are two easy ways to add a border to your label design: using the background color tool or using the shape tool. If you'd like to learn how to quilt, I have a full step by step tutorial! Such quilts are built from center as rounds and rounds of borders, multiplying the risk of creating fullness. Leave yourself about an 8″ tail of binding. There are a few things to keep in mind when you plan your border; you’ll need to consider how you’ll finish the ruffled edge and when to add the border for best results. Set the generic labels aside for later use. Scrap of light fabric for label, washed and dried We can’t wait to see what you make! A mitered corner is stitched at a 45-degree angle to the sides of the quilt.Figure 1: A plain border can have squared o… Iron the fusible onto the back of the label following the manufacturer’s directions. Then measure the side edge of your quilt and add on the width of your top and bottom borders subtracting 1” that will be taken up in seam allowances when these are added (calculation based on ¼” seams). Fold over the corner of the end at a 45-degree angle away from you. If the border is slightly larger or smaller than your top, you can ease in a little bit of difference by putting the … Repeat with all four borders. The quilt won't lie completely flat no matter what you do. That's why we need dual feed or a walking foot. Refold the binding in half like the seam is already sewn. Lay another strip over the first strip at a 90-degree angle, right sides together, with the tail pointing towards you. Not sure about your machine? If not, you have uneven feed. Once satisfied, unfold the binding again and sew the diagonal line marked by the pins (remove the pins as you sew). Now your border is centered on the quilt. You can go back and make the How to Quilt projects any time by Clicking Here for the main article. Download our free PDF quilt labels below then print them on to fabric as the perfect finishing touch for your quilts! The greater the difference, the less square and flat your quilt top. Quilt labels usually note a few things such as: Think of the Five W’s from English class: Who, What, When, Where, and Why. I can sew the label to only the backing fabric on my machine. Quilt labels are also historically important. Fold the quilt top in half diagonally, right sides together, creating a triangle. Pin the border's center to the center of the quilt's edge. Trim the excess batting and backing even to the quilt top. We’re going to start with quilt labels today, because it’s an important step in making a quilt that is too often skipped. And the printable fabric can sometimes be a little hard to hand stitch; so the border will help with that. By sewing the long border seam from the center out, it attaches even more evenly! I'm pleased with the way the borders are now fairly flat. Soon it became clear that, despite our efforts, the border would have puckers if quilted in its current condition. Place pins every 4" or so connecting the border to the quilt edge. Those ruffles will add a wonderful whimsical touch to the finished piece. Roll the edge of the binding over the raw quilt edge and around to the back. Are measurements approximately the same? Place the binding over the quilt top so the raw edges of the folded binding and the raw edge of the quilt line up. Choose a backing fabric for the label. The Quilt border on the 'Sew Simple... it's just Squares' Cot Quilt is very simple and is made from simple lengths of fabric. Trim the fabric to the size label you want, plus half an inch for seam allowances. Even after removing the outer linen border, the quilt will not lay flat. Also, please don’t sew on a border strip and then cut it to length. Quilt labels are also a great place to put a few words of meaning, like a quote, a poem, or a scripture. Print Your Own Quilt Label Tutorial To start, cut a piece of freezer paper and light-colored fabric slightly larger than a standard piece of printer paper (in the US, that's 8 1/2" x 11"). We're sewing along February - April 2018, but you can use the resources anytime to help you make a large quilt. Make sure that the border strip is flat and smooth. Finger press a crease into this diagonal fold. Please, DO NOT do that! Before we get started, you should have your quilt all basted with the excess backing and batting trimmed away, leaving just a couple of inches all the way around your quilt. It can be helpful to sew binding on using a walking foot to help with moving all the layers. Watch this method in action as Bonnie Browning demonstrates how to start a double-fold binding and how to sew a mitered corner. Pat yourself on the back and snuggle up in your quilt! Because there was so much fullness in the flying geese layer, I removed one goose from the center of one side of the quilt. Hand sew the label to … Fortunately, she agreed that I could use the photos to demonstrate this process! Working from the front stitch in the ditch along the folded binding edge. Open the fold on the bottom binding end to see the wrong side. Sew the border to the quilt with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. This post is part of a series:  the Big Bed Quilt-Along. If your quilt's edge has some fullness already, ease that fullness into the border by not stretching the quilt's edge completely flat. I used to just sew on the border strips and trim them to size afterward, and then I’ve seen many quilters just measure the side of the quilt the border will be sewn to and cut the border to that length. The quilt measured 102.5" along one edge, 98.75" at center and 102.25" at the opposite edge. Sew the 1-1/2″ strips to the label like you’re adding a border to a quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance; it doesn’t matter which ones you sew on first. Heat press the ink unless otherwise specified by marker manufacturer. Wait to place yours until after binding the quilt so there’s no risk of accidentally placing it over an area that will be sewn over in the binding process. Your seam will be exposed on the top of your quilt Don’t make this mistake and sew the seam to the quilt back … Fold the raw edges of the label over the freezer paper (to the back of the label) and set a crease with your iron. Mark. At the end of the seam, are the fabric ends still exactly matched? Remove pins as you sew. Join the How To Quilt AQS Facebook group. Once the quilt is all quilted, baste around the edge of the quilt with long, low-tension stitches on your machine. Take 3 measurements:  along two opposite edges and through the quilt's center. If your machine has dual feed, it also moves the fabric from the top. Press the seam allowances open. Sew the border seam, starting at the center of the border where you placed the unique pin. Maybe your 12" strips sew evenly, but what about 24" strips or 36" strips or borders, which might even be 100" long! How to Sew the Label to the Quilt. Move the top binding end aside for a moment. Sew a ½” seam from one end of the strip to the other. I was able to make a big improvement though. (6) 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric strips. At some point every machine needs help to keep strips feeding evenly under the needle. Be sure to leave a margin of empty space around the text, plus 1/4″ on all sides for the seam allowance; I usually make my cut 5/8″ outside the text on all sides. Match them exactly and sew without pins. Let me move these over here. Once you’ve confirmed, replace the top strip over and secure with another pin. Read more about creating a care label by Clicking Here. Scrap of light fabric for label, washed and dried Permanent Fabric Marker Light Iron-On Fusible such as Heat N Bond Lite or Lite Steam-a-Seam 2 Start near a corner. Mark that measurement and trim on the marked line using a pair of scissors. First I sew the vertical sashing strips to the blocks in the top row. 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